It’s been a great decade of jewelry design. The traditional colors, shapes, materials, and diamond designs have been transformed to suit contemporary lifestyles. Jewelry that is typically considered to be serious in nature has been made more wearable and tailored to one’s individual preferences.
After I read JCK’s list of their editor’s picks for the most influential jewelry designers of the decade, it made me contemplate the jewelry styles I’ve encountered over the past ten years. Which designers have been most influential? What criteria are most important? Do I need to include the always influential JAR, Hemmerle, and Suzanne Belperron? When I jotted down who I consider the most influential jewelry designers of the last ten years, I focused on those who made a significant contribution in shifting how jewelry is viewed. Of course, others could be added to the list!
James de Givenchy of Taffin
Jewelry with vibrant colors has become increasingly popular, and this is in no small part due to the remarkable designs produced by James de Givenchy with his New York based company, Taffin, which was established in 1996. This antique 16-carat sapphire possesses an extraordinary shade and is set within a mosaic of robin’s egg, mustard and ultramarine ceramic. A diamond in the shape of a kite with a sunny yellow color is highlighted with chili-hued ceramics. Fire opal is encased in timber and hung on a string or encircled by a flurry of moonstones. Rings contain a delightful surprise of hue internally, which is only visible to the person who is wearing it. This is high-end jewelry reimagined through the lens of contemporary art.
Fernando Jorge
At the start of the ten-year period, Fernando Jorge was acclaimed for his use of vivid gemstones to provide a vibrant feel. The Electric, Fusion and Stream collections were nothing like what we had encountered prior, featuring distinct silhouettes and shapes that were smooth and seductive. Jorge achieved celebrity status amongst predominately clothing designers of the 2010s as a result of his 2017 Brilliant Collection, featuring pieces of jewellery with a constantly moving, captivating aesthetic constructed from diamonds and gold. Soft yet strong, with striking designs suitable for the red carpet, the Brilliant Collection made Jorge an innovator known for his diverse repertoire.
Nikos Koulis
Nikos Koulis has displayed his skill as a master of modern geometry, drawing influence from Art Deco, and has gone even further than that. He has an eye for dramatic pieces of jewelry, featuring colored gemstones offset with black and clear enamel, which is now being balanced with more rounded shapes and more delicate material such as flexible chains, tassels and pearls. The 2017 Lingerie and 2019 Feelings Lineups are no longer just Deco: they are now unique, innovative, and refined.
Suzanne Kalan
Suzanne Kalan‘s Fireworks is the collection of the decade. The release of Fireworks was a game-changer, making baguette cuts the epitome of style and making a chaotic appearance the in-thing. Although it’s not the longest-running success yet – that honor would go to Vitrine, featuring diamond-adorned window-like segments – it was still a trendsetter. Fireworks were initially characterized by odd-shaped diamond shapes, later becoming more colorful with the addition of all the hues of sapphire. Yet, the pieces that creatively redefine the traditional diamond jewelry are the most fascinating. Kalan designed strikingly stylish and contemporary versions of diamond stud earrings, rings, bracelets, and pendants for Fireworks. The newest pieces of jewelry you need to have are both fashionable and unique – they are the diamond essentials of your wardrobe.
Eva Fehren
Eva Fehren’s X-Ring is an unbelievable piece of jewelry which, upon first view, appears to be unquestionably ideal. Naturally, that sentiment didn’t persist, due to the fact that almost instantly, this distinguished model and its modifications were replicated in a multitude of different diamond-themed collections. These designs resulted in the creation of an entirely new type of diamond jewelry, known as diamond line rings. Eva Zuckerman of Eva Fehren Design modified bridal jewelry to include hexagonal diamonds, demonstrating that wedding rings can be stylish. Whether the million women who have accessorized with the X Ring recognize the Eva Fehren name or not, she has unquestionably become one of the most noteworthy jewelry creators of the last ten years.
Irene Neuwirth
Vibrant hues, elaborate shapes, irregularity and jovial contours make Irene Neuwirth’s creations a fresh and amusing means of exhibiting precious stones. It’s easy to see why her pieces of jewelry are well-loved at red carpet events: they provide a novel approach to making a bold fashion statement that exudes a unique and personal flair. In her most recently released range of items, exquisite petite bouquets made from engravings give an extravagent corsage-like effect.
Foundrae and Marla Aaron
Jewelry is becoming increasingly more reflective of personal style and preference this decade. Two new labels that debuted in the last ten years promote the idea of enabling the person who wears the jewelry to show themselves through collections of customizable pieces that can be worn in multiple ways. In an Instagram post, Lucy Wallace Eustace can be seen sporting both items.
Foundrae produces attractive charms that stand for courage, knowledge, destiny, determination, guidance and the natural world. The special thing about the ensemble, though, is the jewelry brand’s adjustable chains, connector pieces, and fasteners that enable the wearer to adorn columns of pendants akin to written parts of their account. Instagram encourages people to design their own singular looks and switch up their look daily.
Marla Aaron has gained notoriety due to the wide variety of locks she designs – beginning with simple carabiners in luxurious materials, they have since evolved to encompass many sizes, forms, stones, decorations, and even including letter locks. These items are intended to be used as charm holders, can interconnect, hang as necklaces, and form an individual collection. Marla has gone one step further than just making locks, now offering pieces such as earrings, rings and bracelets which can be adapted and swapped out.
Foundrae and Marla Aaron both have spectacular strong chains, demonstrating how to layer and individualize them in a modern style.
Catbird and Wwake and Kataoka
Meghan Markle was famously seen wearing the almost imperceptible metal Threadbare Ring from Catbird, one of the most stylish designs of the decade. Catbird began as a very small jewelry store located in Williamsburg, and despite its size had a devoted group of supporters through its online presence. Over time, it has expanded to become a more expansive jewelry manufacturer, delivering its fans the delicate jewelry styles they desire.
Wwake and Kataoka are designers supported by Catbird and they demonstrate it’s “less-is-more” viewpoint in contradictory approaches. Wwake is renowned for crafting exquisite opal jewelry, with delicate gemstones delicately displayed on golden threads (their necklace pictured is likely the most dramatic piece they have ever made).
Kataoka designs ethereal-looking rings that have tiny snowflake accents decorated with diamonds. Its reputation increased significantly recently when Emma Stone announced her engagement with a pearl ring from it. Kataoka has recently unveiled a showroom in Soho, New York exhibiting their entire assortment of items in a design of serene minimalism that reflects the company’s look.
These three brands are proof that Millennials and Gen Y prefer different types of jewelry than the generations before them. Brooklyn-made Catbird jewelry is something which contemporary jewelry aficionados appreciate, crafted in an ecologically responsible way.
Lorraine Schwartz
When it comes to creating outstanding outfits for the red carpet, no one can compare with Lorraine Schwartz. All awards ceremonies in the 2010s substantiated this concept. Beyonce is a huge supporter of the designer, wearing her creations both on the red carpet and on her wedding finger. When Meghan Markle opted to redo her engagement band to make it look more slender, she got in contact with Lorraine. Other admirers of the Schwartz emeralds are Taylor Swift, Blake Lively, and Angelina Jolie (who wore her own exquisite Schwartz emerald earrings at the Oscars back in 2009).
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